Friday, August 21, 2015

Climbing in Snowdonia: Tremadog

With  my family heading south for the delights of the seaside I headed to Wales for a couple of days climbing. However, the weather outlook did not look promising and we had to think about a variety of options. It seemed possible that the rain might hold off for a few hours and we finally decided to make for the Dinas Cromlech or Carreg Wasted crags in the Llanberis pass.  After an early morning start and breakfast near Chester, we arrived at the foot of Carreg Wasted at 1030. The rain was becoming more persistent and the crag looked decidedly damp and greasey. Opting not to climb in the wet we decided to head away from the mountains and the weather they attract. We headed towards the coast.

On the way to Porthmadog we saw the Eric Jones cafe on the left and an impressive crag on the right. That crag was the well known crags of Tremadog! Here it was dry and the weather was certainly an improvement on the mountains. We parked near Erics cafe and walked 200m down the road (toward Tremadog) a convenient gap in the fence and undergrowth allowed us to wander through the woods to our selected route Poor Man's Peutery on Craig Pant Ifan. This climbing route is named after the well known Peutery ridge on the Mont Blanc Massif.

I lead the first pitch up the initial groove, the climbing was great, thinking through the moves I made it to the first stance and belayed against a tree. I'd encourage anyone attempting this route to not be put off by the some of the dirt on the rocks. The next pitch took us higher up the groove, pitch 3 was a straightforward traverse to the finale pitch. The picture below shows a climber near the nose which the climber traverses onto to end up into an exciting exposed situation (image courtesy of go outdoors).
While I was waiting to second the finale pitch, the first drops of rain made an appearance. After climbing onto the slab there was some good climbing up the cracked slab (reminiscent of Millstone edge). A view looking down the route is shown below, the climber can be seen stepping out onto the nose.
The following day was very wet, we decided that we'd prefer to climb and headed for the Indy Climbing wall at Llanfair PG. on Anglesey. After an exhilarating  climb talked of further climbing plans including a possible trip climb Lliwedd




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